I love condrieu but the prices limit my purchases. Are there any 100% viognier wines made in America that use malolactic fermentation and at least 50% oak aging? (I would not expect them to be the same, but worth trying.) Thanks
Answer From Expert Roger Bohmrich MW
I share your enthusiasm for Condrieu! Pity that there is so little of it. A number of wineries in California and elsewhere make wines from this distinctive grape, but typically in small volumes. Few consumers know how wonderfully aromatic and richly textured the finest ones can be. As you suggest, Condrieu tends to command a high price, and most of those from California are not exactly inexpensive. it is a challenge to make Viognier which is not overly alcoholic and flabby (rarely the case in Condrieu, except in the hottest vintages). I can point you to a number of wineries: Aequorea Spanish Springs Vineyard, San Luis Obispo (60% older French oak, no malolactic); Darioush Signature, Napa Valley (fermented in neutral oak); Rideau Estate, Santa Ynez Valley (again, neutral French oak); Pride Mountain, Sonoma County (neutral oak, no malolactic). You can see a pattern here: winemakers do not want to overwhelm the wonderful fruit with new oak and prefer to keep as much natural acidity as possible. If you want to try something different, I suggest Barboursville Vineyards Reserve Viognier from Virginia. It sells for far less than the California ones named here, and the 2017 has won three gold medals - but it is fermented in stainless steel with the malolactic blocked. They ship to about 17 states so you might be in luck if you're feeling adventurous.
