Hi, My wife and I are planning to have a vertical tasting with close friends. We will be drinking four bottles of Vega Sicilia Unico (1973, 1981, 1991 and 2004). We would appreciate your suggestions regarding the order in which the bottles should be opened, decanting times and food pairing if possible. Also...should we use a Vinturi? Best! Anna & Ricardo
Answer From Expert Roger Bohmrich MW
My first reaction is that you are in for a fantastic tasting! Vega Sicilia, from the Ribera del Duero in Spain, is a remarkable property with stunning, distinctive and long-lived wines. While their entire range is of a very high standard, Unico is the flagship bottling. You can find out more about Vega Sicilia and read tasting notes on my website on the Tasting Notes & Ratings/Spain page. I reported on Unico 2004 and 1981, both tasted in 2013, but I do not have recorded notes for the two other vintages you plan to taste. To tackle your specific questions, I am generally a believer in shorter rather than longer decanting periods, but Unico may be an exception. The 2004 could well benefit from being decanted up to two hours in advance of serving time, while the others should gain from at least one hour if not more. I am still an advocate of traditional decanting rather than aerating devices, but that's up to you, and I can't really advise you on that front in terms of timing. In either case, there will be some sediment to avoid in the older wines. It's best, in my opinion, to err on the side of too little rather than too much airing, particularly if you intend to drink the wines over the course of a meal. In that regard, there are many viable strategies, depending first on how many courses you plan to serve. One option - of many - would be to have three courses to present the vintages in question at their best. You could start with the 1991 paired with a roast fowl in a rich reduction sauce along with flavorful mushrooms and root vegetables. The 1981 and 1973 could be enjoyed together, which always adds an interesting comparative element, alongside a rack of lamb generously seasoned with garlic, rosemary and black pepper. Last, the still very youthful 2004 could be reserved for a cheese course, provided you choose types which will not overwhelm the wine as often happens. To stay with the theme, I suggest more subtle Spanish cheeses such as Manchego, Idiazabal, Roncal and Murcia al Vino, cured in red wine. It's best to stay away from blue cheeses such as the otherwise superb Cabrales. None of the cheeses I recommend will take away from appreciating the brilliant and vigorous 2004. Wishing you a happy and pleasurable experience!
