Back in the early 1970's I can remember the reviews of all the big name cabernet sauvignons had at the top of their list the aroma of eucalyptus. Now the aroma of cassis is at the top of the aroma list and eucalyptus apparently does not exist any longer. What is going on?
Answer From Expert Roger Bohmrich MW
Your question raises some intriguing points about wine aroma, their sources, and the evolution of styles. You can still find eucalyptus in the aroma of some California Cabernets, and this distinctive element - which some have incorrectly identified as mint - comes from eucalyptus trees adjoining vineyards. Scientists tells us that the oils of these trees are transferred to the vine both in the air and, in some cases, via the soil and roots. A hint of eucalyptus adds complexity, but this odor can easily overwhelm other aspects of the wine (and, as with taste in general, individual sensitivities vary). Premium California wine competes in a global marketplace today, which was not the case decades ago. Winemakers are aware of and influenced by wine styles from many parts of the world. Most aim for a more "classic" Cabernet aroma, often described as cassis or black currant when the wine is young. Interestingly, chemists reveal that this so-called fruit aroma is a by-product of fermentation. Speaking of the evolution of the top tier of California Cabernet-based wines, we should also mention that the taste profile has evolved over recent years in the direction of very ripe grapes and full-bodied, powerful wines with generous oak treatment.
