Dozens of print journalists, wine distributors and wine representatives converged on Dallas’ Old Red Museum recently to attend the 18th Annual Great Match, an annual wine tasting sponsored by Wines From Spain. Held in downtown Dallas, near the John F. Kennedy assassination site, the Spanish wine tasting event was hosted by renowned author, columnist and Master Sommelier, Doug Frost, MS, MW. This year’s theme was “Spain’s Vivacious Varietals,” and Wines From Spain and Vibrant Rioja organizers said it had been two years since the last Great Match, which brings together importers, wineries and the media, was held in Dallas. In explaining to attendees about the Valdeorras wine region in Galicia, an area known as “Green Spain,” Frost talked about the unparalleled beauty and Celtic culture in that unspoiled northwestern part of Spain. “This area of Spain is populated by blue-eyed blonds, and what you hear is bagpipe music,” he said. “The Celtic race came here 2,000 years ago. In fact, much of the area is as green as Ireland and Scotland.” Situated above Portugal on the North Atlantic, Galicia is a treasure trove of estuaries, mountains and a proud people. Here among myriad rias, meaning estuaries in the indigenous Gallego language, is the Valdeorras wine region. Frost talked about the repression of culture and language by Dictator Francisco Franco, and how everything in Spain changed dramatically after the dictator’s death in 1975. Ironically, Franco was born in a small Galicia town not far from the Valdeorras region. “Everything happening in Spain right now is cataclysmic,” he said. People were producing wine here for a thousand years. But because of the dictatorship, the world didn’t know about this region. Now, the two grapes that are really exciting and were not known before are the Godello and the Mencia,” he said. Frost explained that the Valdeorras region-which mean “Valley of Gold” in Gallego-produces the Godello grape used to make fine white wine. The same region produces the deep purple Mencia grape, which is used to make smooth, mellow red wines. At a lunchtime seminar, which set the stage for a multi-level wine tasting event later, Frost led participants through seven Godello and two Mencia 2008 and 2009 vintages. Response to the Castelo Do Papa Godello 2009, which retails for $13.99 a bottle, reminded one oenophile of St. Joseph aspirin. Next, A Coroa Novo Godello 2009 got rave reviews for its fruity citrus taste and notes of apricots and honey. It retails for $19.99 a bottle. Casal Novo Godello 2009, which sells for $22.00 a bottle, felt like yeast on the palate to some. Others detected hints of dough and sulphur. From slate and chalk hillsides, this un-oaked wine would flourish with ageing. Number four was Godeval 2009 by bodegas Godeval, whose U.S. Importer is Fine Estates. This white wine was much richer with notes that ran the gamut of citrus fruits from peach to kiwi. Its bouquet was invigorating and smooth going down. It’s an import bargain at $18.00 a bottle. Before going on to the fifth white wine, Frost learned that there were quite a few oenophiles present. Several remarked on the overall freshness and low acidity of the Galician wines. That said, the 2008 Valdesil Godello tasted linear and tart. Several notes included tropical fruits such as mango and coconut. It retails for $21.99 per bottle. A 2010 Valdesil Montenovo Godello, priced at a modest $14.99, was my favorite thus far. It had lemon zest and green apple notes. Frost commented that it came from large barrels and that it was all about lees, referring to the Celtic heritage of the region. The final white wine from old vines had a taste of quartz and brand new oak. This 2009 Avanthia Godello had notes of chocolate, coffee, hickory smoke and even baloney. Frost said its high altitude surroundings and the Atlantic Ocean accounted for its earthy taste. Wrapping up the seminar with a 2009 Ruchel Mencia from Bodegas Ruchel, inspired one wine lover to remark that this red Mencia reminded him of Sauvignon Franc. Frost said that red Mencia is often compared with that French wine. At $19.00 a bottle it too is a steal, considering it’s an import. A 2009 Pagos del Galir Mencia Crianza, was the final wine on the list. It was a delicious red wine Frost described as stylistically balanced. All the wines were Denominacion de Origen (DO) from the “Valley of Gold” or Valdeorras. A Crianza for $18.00 a bottle is the very best deal of all, considering the value of its ageing process. After the first seminar, wine enthusiasts tasted wines from Spain’s popular Rioja region, as well as other Spanish winemaking areas. Among the wines offered by dozens of winery representatives were: Tempranillo, Garnacha, Monastrell, Verdejo, Albarino and many more. Thanks to an American propensity to drink more and more wine, all of the wines mentioned and all of the ones tasted throughout the day long event are available at both super markets, liquor stores and even “big box” stores now.
