It has come to my attention how much wine styles have affected wine tasting by professionals and how little we (wine tasting reviewers) realize that consumers need just the facts.
It became evident during a conversation I had recently with a fellow wine tasting colleague. They were second-guessing their own qualifications while reviewing a wine of extremely high caliber that had been produced in a style that this particular producer had not embraced in the past.
The idea for this episode of "I Don’t Buy That" presented itself when we were comparing notes on some wines we both had recently reviewed. There were two new wines from the same producer with a considerable price difference. I had given a better score on a wine that was half the price from a high profile producer that had recently released a new line of wines, who I am sure, would have liked and probably expected me to rate the more expensive above the better tasting and newer styled wine that was half the price.
Reviewers are not above being swayed by marketing techniques when those techniques are actually in the bottle and not on paper. Sometimes, as in the case of the two wines we are talking about, this practice might backfire. For my tastes old school classic does not automatically trump other styles of wine. I see this trend (designating this style is the only style for this varietal) permeating the industry on many different levels.
I even find myself berating wines from time to time, because the producers are not making their wine to fit into little categories that make the reviewing of those wines an easy job. Honestly now; why would the producers take into account how reviewers will taste the wine and decide to either go old school (Classic French Standards) or rate the wine on what actually passes as a serviceable wine that will impress for entertaining and culinary application.
Their job (the producers) is to bottle the highest quality for the least amount of overhead; that’s the honest truth and the bottom line all in one statement. Let us all not forget the importance of that fact nor loose respect for those who are proficient at that task.
The marketing of wines that have been benchmarked to the standard of a particular varietal and pigeonholed as a distinct flavor associated with a grape will always be a fight that up and coming vintners will have to overcome as they bring their products to market. As sure as soil in different locations will always yield different results with the same varietal. Certainly, those varietals will not always deliver the same flavor from every regional viticulture area.
From a reviewers standpoint I see the opportunity to seize upon an up and coming wine that represents a region in a way that is unique and write about as though it sets a new standard. On the other side, I see a duty to remain educated and unbiased while exclaiming any specific knowledge on the subject while attempting to stay on-point.
From a consumers viewpoint I certainly see how that reaction could lead to an ambiguous confidence level and consider the information somehow, less than reliable advice.
The scope of this subject still revolves around Style vs. Function; appreciating wine is both and will always be about both. Which will have the most impact on your wine buying decisions? Style should be a component of the whole package, but lately seems to be the basis, by which many reviewers conclude the stature and overall rating of a wine (Please, someone out there disagree with me about this).
I will attempt to define what I mean by function. A wine fulfils a function by completing the task of becoming the wine you picked for everyday table wine being consistently serviceable, tasty and within your budget. Another example might be wine we hope will be an entertainment device that dazzles with flavor and style while impressing those with an experienced palate.
Style has become more elusive to describe. To me, style has nothing to do with how much the vintner paid for the bottles or the label artwork and even less to do with the description on the back of the label. It is the package of aroma, flavor, and texture and how those components relate to the region the grapes came from and how the winemaker utilized their particular winemaking skills.
Even as I attempt to explain this conundrum, I stumble with finding clear thoughts that may explain what the hell I’m trying to say. Maybe I should drink some more wine?
I do know that customers, when shopping for wine, appreciate the question "Is there a specific function this wine choice will be fulfilling?" That’s the easy one if I follow that question with "Is there a specific style you prefer?" I have crossed into the "why did I ask that question zone". Personal experiences come into play, and wine knowledge goes out the window. This is the point where the real wine professional takes charge and tells you what style you should be drinking. Not me, I enjoy listening to people especially about wine so I walk into that zone with reckless abandon.
If you are making decisions about purchasing wine you have not tasted but on information you got from some publication like this, stop doing that. You have to taste the wine. We can point you in the right direction and point out some bargains within a specific taste, but in the end, you are the ultimate judge. If your friends don't like the wine you picked, let them bring their own next time. We just hope they came to Enobytes to make a good decision.
**If you wish to comment on this article, please feel free to visit Marc's blog and leave at comment at http://enobytes.org/blog/index.php?blog=2 or email him at marc@enobytes.org.
