The full name of the region is Friuli Venezia Giulia. It has less than 1 1/4 million inhabitants and sits in the north east corner of Italy with Austria to the North, Slovenia to the East, and the Adriatic Sea to the South. Almost half of Friuli (using the shortened version is a lot less confusing to Americans since many assume Venezia or Venice is part of the region and it is not) is occupied by mountains including part of the Alps. The largest cities are Udine with almost 100,000 population and the regional capitol Trieste with about 250,000 people. It ranks 17th among the 20 regions in size.
In 181 BC the Romans founded Aquileia whose ruins have been meticulously restored and are the most important archaeological sites in northern Italy. Then there were “visits” from Attila the Hun, the Lombard’s, Charlemagne, the Austrian Hapsburg’s and Napoleon, who did seem to get around. The Venetian Republic conquered Friuli in 1420 (hence the name) and finally, in 1866 most of Friuli was annexed to the Italian Kingdom. We are up to the two World Wars, most of which was fought in this area, and more swapping of territory. Finally, in 1963 Friuli Venezia Giulia was established as a region of Italy, but with many of the customs and languages of their ancestors still preserved.
But enough history and on to the reason I was there; the wines. More than 60% of its wine production is white with Collio, Collio Orientall del Friuli, Friuli Grave and Friuli Isonzo four of the better known of the nine DOC zones (denominazione di origine controllata, similar to the French AOC laws). There is one DOCG Ramamdolo (the G stands for garantita or guaranteed, the highest level). Friuli’s reputation was made by mainly small wineries using the Tocai Friuliano grape variety. Because of the rules of the European community the name Tocai must be changed so as not to be confused with the Tokay or Tokaji of Hungary. The Friulian style in whites favor the fresh, fruity and delicate style with very little wood aging and includes Pinot Grigio, Pinot Bianco and Chardonnay. But that is also changing as many wineries now favor the depth and complexity that occurs with blending and oak aging. The reds have been traditionally light and fruity, best consumed within a few years of the harvest. That includes Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Pinot Nero and a local favorite Refosco. But here also the blending of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot and aging the wine in small oak barrels has changed the style. The terraced slopes create perfect growing conditions along with the Adriatic and alpine currents. There has also been a revival of long neglected varieties including Picolit, a sweet dessert wine popular in the 1800’s. I also found Verduzzo, varietal making lighter style dessert wines; Refosco a light fruity red and the rare Pignolo and Schioppettino varieties that are drawing lots of attention from winemakers. Add to the list sparkling wines (spumante in Italian) made from Pinot Grigio and Chardonnay.
Friuli, with its union of three culinary traditions (the Austrian, the Venetian and the Slav) is home to local favorites such as: San Daniele prosciutto and frico (cheese cooked with potatoes and onions) often served as antipasto. First courses include: Gnocchi and risotto along with Iota, a bean, potato and sauerkraut soup of Austrian origins. Main courses I enjoyed during my visit included: fresh seafood from the Adriatic and meat and game from the interior. Most meals included polenta, made from maize, and fresh produce. I guess most Americans are used to processed and zapped foods- myself included- so the natural bread, fresh vegetables and fruits led to my gaining more weight on this trip than any other I have taken in the past few years. I couldn’t resist the strudels and gubana, a cake filled with dry fruits, raisins and grappa. That was the only item I took home with me, besides wine.
My home for 5 nights was the restored 18th Century castle/hotel Castello di Spessa that was built on the remains if a 13th Century building (Spessa is derived from the Latin “spissu” meaning thick, referring to the woods originally encircling the area). It is situated on a hill in Capriva del Friuli, an hour plus from the Venice airport and a ½ hour from the Trieste airport. The castle is surrounded by a 18 hole golf course and clubhouse, a soon to open spa, the vineyards of the Castello & its wine cellar, with a production of about 15,000 cases of wine. Less than ¼ mile down the road is the La Tavernatta al Castello with 10 rooms and a restaurant. Rates average $150-$200, including breakfast. A few miles away is his other winery La Boatina, which produces La Boatina & I Roncati, both less expensive brands with 25,000 case production as well as having 5 rooms and a restaurant. They also distribute a locally produced Grappa. Loretto Pali, the owner, is in the children’s furniture business and has been coming to the US for over 30 years selling his wares. He purchased the Castello in 1981 and began restoring it using art, antiques and furniture from the 17th and 18th Centuries. There is a reception room, banquet rooms, a chapel, conference rooms and a small museum, with the capability to seat 150 for dinner. Giacomo Casanova was a guest here for three months in 1773 and Mr. Pali has named one of his red wines Casanova. There are now 9 rooms with 6 more being added this year. While constructing the wine cellar he found an underground bunker used by the Germans and the Americans during World War II that he has converted into a barrel storage room.
I also visited the Cantina Produttori Cormons, a cooperative located in Cormons, the capitol of the Collio wine district and home to the famous “Wine of Peace” or “Vino della Pace” made from the blend of almost 600 species of vines (I didn’t realize there were that many) from all five continents planted in the “World’s Vineyard”. Director Luigi Soini sends three bottles of each vintage to over 80 heads of state as a symbol of universal brotherhood. Rumor has it that only one world leader never acknowledged the gift and his dad was President. Since 1985 the labels have been produced by contemporary artists and include the writings of poets and authors. There is also a wine and food shop plus a trattoria on premise.
I had lunch at Zidarich Azienda Agricola located a few minutes from the Slovenian border. They are building a magnificent underground wine cellar hand carved from the side of a rock filled hill for their very small 1,500 case production winery. We had lunch at their Agriturismo, the Italian version of a local diner, with excellent food and very reasonable prices.
The Abbazia Di Rosazzo was founded around 1070 by Augustinian and Benedictine Monks from Austria. Now owned by the Archdiocese of Udine and leased since 1981 to the Vinai dell’Abbate they are set in a mild microclimate with the sea only 12 miles away. Its position at the top of a hill provides ventilation and sunlight especially important for their red wines.
Why don’t Americans know more about the wines of Friuli? Perhaps there are just too many other regions in Italy that they know and have read about. The food and wine is great; the prices very reasonable; Delta flies non-stop from JFK to Venice; the historical sites rival anywhere in Italy; the roads are good; there are very few Americans yet English is spoken everywhere; you can visit casinos less than ½ hour away in Slovenia; the sea is less than an hour’s drive.
So what’s stopping you? GO ALREADY.
Information Central:
www.delta.com
www.paliwines.com
www.golfgoriza.it
www.vinaidellabbate.it
www.zidarich.it
www.cormons.com
www.discoverfriuli.com
www.made-in-italy.com
www.italianmade.com
