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The Delicato Wine Story- Edited By Darryl Beeson

by Darryl Beeson

Gasparé Indelicato emigrated to California from a small village in Italy. He would grow wine grapes like his father, grandfather, and several generations before him had done. The first grapes for Delicato Family Vineyards were planted in the spring of 1924.

His hard work was rewarded with more orders than he could fill. During Prohibition, Gasparé's grapes were sought after by home winemakers seeking quality grapes for home winemaking and this business kept the vineyard operation solvent when many of his neighbors struggled. But grape sales declined during the Great Depression. In 1935, with Prohibition repealed, Gasparé made the decision to turn a portion of his grapes into wine, using techniques his father had taught him. In the old haybarn by the vineyard, Gasparé, his brother-in-law, and their twin wives took turns with a hand driven press to produce their first vintage.

Today, Delicato is one of the leading family winegrowers in America, with members of the second and third generation of Indelicato family actively involved in the business. The winery harvests more than 10,000 acres of vineyard estates across the top regions of California, ranging from the coastal cool of the legendary San Bernabe vineyard in Monterey, one of California's oldest grape-growing regions, to Clay Station, a remarkable vineyard property located in the rolling foothills East of Lodi.

The 2005 Delicato Pinot Grigio ($8) "exhibits lifted aromas of pear, ginger and orange blossom, while the palate has concentrated citrus flavors of orange and lemon," says director of winemaking Tim Wong.

The "Irony" Napa Valley Chardonnay 2004 ($13) by Delicato boasts layers of juicy tropical fruit with citrus , green apples and mineral notes. The crisp fruit is balanced by a creamy finish. Enjoy with salad, oysters, mild cheeses, grilled fish, roasted chicken, creamy pastas or on its own!

Napa Valley is known for producing wines of great character and quality due to its location. The combination of climate - hot summer days, cool, windy evenings and foggy mornings. Napa's famous fog is particularly evident in this region and ensures a long growing season for the grapes, which are balanced and elegant.

Delicato's Gnarly Head Old Vine Zinfandel, Lodi 2005 ($8) is named for the Zinfandel vines grown as free standing "head trained" vines - the ones with twisted old trunks and branches that reach out in all directions. "The grapes from these brash old vines create quaffable Zin with concentrated fruit," says Wong.

The 2005 Gnarly Head Old Vine Zinfandel is crafted from grapes from 35-to 80-year-old vines. Rich, dark berry flavors from the small grape clusters are aged in French, American and Hungarian oak, which is said to create layers of plum, pepper and chocolate. This concentrated combination provides a lingering and spicy finish on the palate. Serve this one with lusty barbecue, grilled vegetables or gourmet hamburgers.

During California's Gold Rush, Lodi's Clay Station stagecoach stop was a gateway to the Bay Area, where people from across the U.S. sought gold, vineyard land and entrepreneurial endeavors. "The journey to Clay Station was an adventure across unexplored terrain to parts unknown," explains Wong. "All of this in the name of a new beginning and better opportunities."

In the early 90s, the Indelicato family went on a similar journey in search of the ideal vineyard. "In Lodi, we found land untouched and overgrown with grasses, iron-rich, gravelly clay soils interlaced with granite and stone cobbles, being perfect for growing grapes," concludes Wong. The promising land at Clay Station beckoned them to produce new grape varieties, fusing California winemaking style with Old World varietals, be that Old vine Zinfandel a la Italy/Croatia, Viognier and Syrah from Southern France, Malbec from Bordeaux, Pinot Gris and Petite Sirah from the Rhône.

The 2004 Clay Station Petite Sirah ($12) is a bold, powerful wine with intense black cherry, chocolate and espresso notes and nuances of vanilla, toast and pepper on the finish. The full-bodied fruit character is balanced with velvety tannins from French and Hungarian oak, for a wine that is big in structure, flavor and finish. The exact blend is 79% Petite Sirah, 17% Syrah, 4% other red varietals. Pair this with flame-grilled steaks, meat-lover's pizza, or grilled chicken with fresh rosemary.

Clay Station 2005 Viognier ($8) exhibits delicate aromas of white peach, honeysuckle and jasmine on the nose. These aromatics are complemented by flavors of juicy apricot and peach. The concentrated fruit character of this wine is balanced with a crisp acidity, making this Viognier very elegant and a perfect match for a variety of dishes, including pasta with shrimp in olive oil, cold pasta salad, sautéed chicken or fish, as well as grilled vegetables.

Learn more at www.delicato.com.


About the Author

Darryl Beeson - Over the past decade, as sommelier or cellar master of hotels such as The Gaylord Texan, The Mansion on Turtle Creek and The Adolphus Hotel's French Room, Beeson helped garner awards such as the Wine Spectator's Grand Award, Food & Wine Magazine's B