I once read a wine article in which the writer quoted a wine shop salesperson as saying that instead of reading wine guides or wine reviews, you should just trust your own palate. Well, that’s an interesting idea, except that it could take 10 wine purchases before “your own palate” finds one that is a great value.
There’s no question that different writers appeal to different consumers. I’ve had recommendations from wine shop salespersons and wine writers that were perfect, and just the opposite. When you do find someone in the know with whom you agree most of the time, better stick with him/her!
Also, the writer of the above-mentioned article outlined the exact temperature and humidity percentage for storing wine under ideal conditions. I have no problem with quoting a range of temperatures or humidity for storing wine, but one temperature and one humidity percentage is ideal for whom? It depends on what’s in your cellar. And let me emphasize that there is no perfect temperature or humidity percentage, just like there is no perfect temperature to drink a red or white wine.
Another writer recently descried the fact that since 2000, Chianti producers have been allowed to add up to 20% Cabernet Sauvignon or other authorized grapes, and that now Chianti doesn’t taste like Chianti anymore, “austerity” being the key attribute he enjoys in a Chianti. He may be partially right for traditional Chianti lovers, but austerity is one of the key words most Americans wish to avoid in a wine.
The result of the 2000 law probably results in more Chiantis being enjoyed by Americans. Good for us, and there are plenty of traditionalists in Chianti who are not blending in 20%, or even 1% Cabernet Sauvignon.
In France, there is the argument against those who make their wines California style—opulence over elegance—to get higher scores from the major wine critics and thus obtain better sales in the U.S. It’s certainly happening, but there are plenty who do not participate in this endeavor, and their wines can be enjoyed by the traditionalists.
It’s funny that Robert Parker gave the 1990 Chateau Montrose, an opulent, rich, tender- tannin, lower-acid Bordeaux a score of 100, whereas some European writers have gone out of their way to denigrate the wine. It’s ironic that after making the French elegance vs. the California opulence argument, we can look back and find that some of the greatest vintages in Bordeaux, such as 1982, 1990 and 2000, came from warmer weather and more sunshine—sounding like California?—producing richer, more opulent offerings as opposed to the more tannic, austere vintages.
There is a company named Enologix that specializes in helping a winery increase its ratings. Although there is much criticism about this from some quarters, I’ve not seen anyone argue that maybe the major critics are right—at least the public thinks so. People are not going to continue buying recommended wines if they don’t like them.
Of course, those who think wine is only about bringing out the terroir of each specific vineyard, microclimate, etc., hurl nothing but pejoratives at the idea of hiring Enologix to obtain a better score from Robert Parker—even if it does make the wine “better.” In truth, it would be sad if all the wineries in the world started making rich, opulent, 15% alcohol, low-acid, soft-tannin wines.
But I’m not the least bit concerned. There are tides—ebbs and flows—in life and in winemaking. I remember the 1974 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve from Robert Mondavi. It was a blockbuster, made as I recall with little fining or filtration, and didn’t start showing its best until around 1980. In the late ‘70s or early ‘80s, he told me that he was “sculpting” his wines—making them lighter and more elegant because that’s what people wanted. By 1984, he had come full circle; his ’84 and ’85 vintages were analogous to the ’74 style.
One time I was at Mayacamas with owner Bob Travers, and although I’m a big fan of his wines, I mentioned that I didn’t really care for the white wine we were drinking and explained why. He cared not in the slightest and made no comment in defense of the wine. He has and always will make his wines one way—the way he thinks they should be made. The fact that his Cabernets sometimes don’t “turn the corner,” as he puts it, for 15 years is irrelevant. There are plenty of enophiles out there who buy and cellar them for years. I mean, what’s a cellar for anyway?
Finally, there are winemakers producing their wines to bring forth their terroir, others making wines for great Parker scores, others making wines the way they want to and still others trying to produce wines they think the public wants. I don’t think we’re in serious danger of all wines tasting the same any time soon!
