Shochu (pronounced show-chew) is Japan's leading spirit and ranks second to beer in alcoholic drink popularity in its homeland. Its flavors are varied and as a result, might seem hard to pin down, but that variety is what makes it so very special and allows it to be paired and enjoyed in many ways.
Unlike bourbon, single malts or most other distillate spirits whose flavors cluster around a typical center, the primary carbohydrate source is not limited to a narrow range of mash bills. That and a unique Japanese process makes shochu, especially honkaku (authentic/artisanal) shochu such an intriguing drink.
A multitude of vegetable starch sources (53 are permitted) can be used because the sugars needed by fermenting yeasts are made available by exactly the same process that allows sake (nihonshu to the Japanese) to be made from rice. Alcohol producing yeasts love sugar, but have a tough time with longer chain starches like those found in rice.
The Japanese have figured out that pretreatment of steamed rice with koji kin (Aspergillus mold spores) will produce starch digesting enzymes in sufficient quantity to treat much larger batches of starch laden grains or even vegetables, coaxing them to release lots of sugar. This step is comparable to malting barley for maltose synthesis, which is then used to digest grain starches for fermentation in whiskey production.
That inoculated steamed rice, now called koji, can be added to a watery mix of just about anything starchy and an appropriate yeast. Most popular are sweet potato, barley, kokuto (brown) sugar, rice, and buckwheat. Starch sources as diverse as cactus, milk, seaweed, pumpkin, chestnut, or even radish are also fair game. This is the basis for such variety, as there is no single underlying fermented ingredient in the mash for shochu production.
Following the main fermentation is a single distillation in a pot or alembic still. This allows for two characteristics of honkaku shochu to show themselves: lower alcohol content and more flavor compounds for greater complexity. This distillation lets the core ingredients of the mash come through with a loud voice. Multiple distillations or using a Coffey still would squeeze the flavor out, leaving more alcohol and less character. Distilling in a Coffey results in a less expensive, more alcoholic version referred to as korui shochu.
Next in the process could be limited aging, in any type of vessel including but not limited to oak barrels, clay pots, or stainless steel; or no aging at all. Finishing the process is filtration and dilution to anywhere between the 25% standard to 44% maximum ABV before bottling.
Typically it can be served cold, warm, mixed, diluted with water or straight up; both with and without food. Having a generally lower alcohol and more varied flavor profiles than most other spirits, it's a really interesting and versatile drink.
Some things that I sampled:
Selephant (30% ABV) Kokuto sugar base and 1 year in enamel lined vats. Very delicate, can barely detect the alcohol, with a little muskiness.
Kana (30% ABV) Kokuto sugar base and 1 year in ex-bourbon barrels. The barrel flavors and corn come through in a gentle, but firm way.
Mugi Hokka (25% ABV) Heirloom barley base, with 8% roasted rather than steamed. Reminded me of roasted rice green tea, which I personally love.
Mahoko (35% ABV) Sweet potato base, fermented and aged for 15 years in ceramic pots. Deep aromatics and delicious.
Colorful (30% ABV) Sweet potato base but of different varieties; a blend of two vintages as well. Light and silky mouth feel, citrus and bergamot, with sake like nose.
Yokka Koji (43% ABV) 100% Thai rice for koji and kojified base rice, made in Okinawa under WTO protected rules, allowing it to be called Ryukyu Awamori. Bottled at still strength, it is most whiskey like, very smooth and a bit hot, but in a good way.
There is much to be found under the single umbrella name of Honkaku Shochu. The production steps of koji kin and rice to start, then single pot still distillation are the keys to understanding this beverage. Almost everything else is up for variation. Even though it is just starting to become available in the USA, with so much to choose from, it could be the next wave. Cheers!
Many thanks to Christopher Pellegrini, author of "The Shochu Handbook," for hosting a very informative tasting class on Honkaku Shochu in NYC. It was my first exposure to this wonderful spirit.
