A Chinese proverb says “cheap things are not good, good things are not cheap”. But is it true for second wines which often claim to be ‘Grand vin quality for a fraction of the price’? While it is hard to disagree that first wine (or ‘Grand vin’) from top-notch estates can be one of the greatest pleasures, their prices are definitely outside of my drinking budget and I had to look for cheaper alternatives. Just recently I got a bottle of Reserve de la Comtesse 2010, the second label of Pichon Lalande (Second Growth). This second wine from Pauillac is known for its velvety texture and feminine character due to a higher percentage (46%) of Merlot in the blend. On the palate it was rich, yet elegant and smooth, displaying cassis, black cherry, cigar box and forest floor notes. Although it wasn’t particularly big, it had nice complexity and finish. Worth the money in my opinion. By way of comparison, a bottle of grand vin, same vintage, would cost me three times more. But are second wines always a bargain or are they generally overpriced? Does a famous name guarantee quality? While these are not ‘yes or no’ questions, the following should be noted.
What is 'second wine'?
Essentially, second wines (aka second labels) are made from parcels of wine that, for whatever reason, did not make the cut for an estate's Grand vin. Bordeaux winemakers compose a vintage by mixing different grape varieties and keep wine from different parcels apart until the blending stage. This allows a winery to be more selective of the wine that goes into its top wine ensuring consistency in quality and style. However, instead of throwing away the rejected wine or selling it off in bulk, a vintner can bottle it under a different name as its second (or even third) wine and sell through existing distribution channels. Most second labels do not have the word “château” in their name, but other parts of an estate’s name can be added. In Bordeaux, words like ‘Petit’, ‘Chapelle’, ‘Madame’ or ‘Clos’ are quite common. The practice of second wines originated on the Left Bank in Bordeaux and quickly spread across other winemaking regions. Today, practically every serious wine producer in and outside of France has a second label. Take, for instance, Le Serre Nuove, the second wine of the iconic Tenuta dell' Ornellaia or Screaming Eagle's Second Flight or Valbuena by Vega Sicilia (although it is not officially called ‘second wine’ it is made of younger vines not fit for Vega Sicilia’s Grand vin - Unico). On the other hand, it is by no means a rule and some producers are less enthusiastic about second wines. The primary reason being that their production is too small (the so-called garagistes) and they are focused entirely on the main wine and its reputation. For example, the iconic Château Petrus and Le Pin both prefer selling their rejected wine lots as generic Pomerol. Similarly, Château d’Yquem would not release its sweet wine in less successful vintages. And contrary to popular belief, ‘Y’ by d’Yquem is not a second wine, but a different label (‘Y’ is harvested earlier and is a non-bortrytised, dry wine).
Vinification
But while the practice of second wines makes sense from a producer’s perspective, it seems to complicate things for consumers who are often misled by the idea that there is little sacrifice in terms of quality. Although it is true that a second wine is made by the same winemaking team as its costlier counterpart, the blend is different. Broadly speaking, there are two categories of second wines: those where grapes come from the same vineyards as the top wine and those where grapes come from separate vineyards that are never used for Grand vin. In the first case, a second wine can be made from younger or overproducing vines, or grapes picked too early or too late, or represent declassified lots in less successful vintages. The latter category, however, resembles a separate brand rather than a true second wine thus creating a confusion (e.g. Clos du Marquis is not a second wine of Leoville Las Cases but a separate wine). In Bordeaux, if the name of a château appears on a label, this means that 100% of the grapes must some from that estate. Outside of France, however, the rules are more lax and second wines can be made from grapes harvested elsewhere. Also, to round out the powerful Cabernet Sauvignon that usually dominates in Grand vin, second wines will often get a higher proportion of Merlot in the blend. This is especially true for Left Bank producers since Right Bank wines are Merlot based anyway. There is also a difference in treatment: second wine will generally spend less time in oak and a winemaker will typically use old rather than new oak barrels. By way of example, Château Latour's second wine - Les Forts de Latour - is aged in 50% old oak barrels while its flagship wine gets 100% new oak, and Le Clarence de Haut Brion, the second wine of Château Haut Brion, only gets 20-25% of new oak. But the cost of new oak is not the only reason here. When it comes to wine it is all about balance, and given the profound influence new oak has on wine, it can be overpowering. In practice, all this results in less complex and less powerful wines that are not meant for long-term cellaring. And while some second wines may be indeed excellent wines and may have some characteristics of a producer’s house style, they are typically less polished and sophisticated than their elders. On the positive side though, they are softer, mature sooner and thus are more approachable in youth.
A bargain or a waste of money?
Unfortunately, the quality of second wines varies dramatically. Some second wines available on the market are basically leftovers and ideally should have been discarded. Nevertheless, a reputable winemaker will usually put as much craftsmanship into its second label as it does for its Grand vin. Therefore, second wines from top producers can be the best way to get familiar with their house style without paying a fortune. With skyrocket prices of First Growths’ Grand vin, mainly due to demand from China, many wine producers have realised that it is essential to promote their second wines. Some have even introduced third wines to bolster the quality of their second labels. In fact, some second labels are so great that they practically live their own life (i.e. second labels of Premieres Crus) and may even become a brand of their own. For example, one of Bordeaux’s most successful brands - Mouton Cadet - was once the second wine of Château Mouton-Rothschild and eventually evolved into its own brand offering generic Bordeaux wine. Besides First Growths, second labels of the so-called ’Super Seconds’ can be a real bargain. These ‘Super Seconds’ include Second Growths that truly stand out (for example, Cos d’Estournel from Saint-Estèphe or Leoville-Las-Cases from Saint-Julien) or producers omitted from the original Bordeaux Classification of 1855 whose wines are at the level of the First Growths (La Mission Haut Brion from Pessac-Leognan or the iconic Right Bank estates, such as Petrus, Le Pin, Trotanoy, Lafleur, Cheval Blanc and Ausone). In some vintages they can even outshine the First Growths.In successful years, second-wines from elite wineries are definitely better than most main labels. However, the problem with second wines from big estates is that they will still cost you a lot because of both quality and name. But they do represent a bargain when you consider the price of the premier wine. Now may be a good time to try some of the best second wines given the drop in their prices (except for Petit Mouton, the second wine of Château Mouton-Rothschild, which retains its value due to its popularity in Asia). Outside of Bordeaux the situation is pretty much the same. Prices for Napa’s cult wines like Screaming Eagle or Harlan Estate can go as high as USD 800 per bottle which is just too expensive for a restaurant’s wine list. At the same time, their second wines ‘Second Flight’ and ‘The Maiden’ respectively, get high scores and retail at less than one third the price offering a comparative bargain. The bottom line would be that there are indeed great deals on the market and second wines can be a win-win situation for both producers and consumers. However, since the term ’second wine’ is not defined, the relation between a Grand vin and a second wine can be different meaning that second wines often do not necessarily represent the house style of a winery. At the same time, second wines are made in more forward, ready-to-drink style and are not meant to be as complex and sophisticated as Grand vin. Therefore, I don’t see a reason why they should be judged under the same scrutiny. Overall, second wines offer a wide range of more affordable quality wine that often will be a pleasant surprise rather than a disappointment once you find a real deal. Enjoy your wine!
