The French once sneered at American wines --until the famous “judgment of Paris” in 1976, when a California Cabernet and Chardonnay topped the best red and white wines of France in a blind tasting. Today, no one doubts that the U.S. can turn out world- class wines. And it’s not just California that can do it! Although California still produces 90% of all the wine made in the U.S., just about every state now makes wine. (Some of them don’t make good wine-- but give them time). Since almost all wine drinkers have tasted California wine, let’s raise a toast to some of our other great wine- producing states. Washington State is the second largest wine producing state in the U.S. and, while it’s not well known, New York is the third largest. Oregon comes in fourth, Michigan makes the top 10, and even Idaho and Virginia are turning out good wines! California wineries produce nearly every grape varietal, from Alicante Bouschet to Zinfandel. Oregon and Washington are more specialized, with each having their own distinctive wine grapes—Oregon has been called America's Burgundy and Washington, America's Bordeaux. Washington and Oregon wines strike a balance between the riper, warm-climate wines of California and the leaner, more austere wines of France. In fact, because Washington and Oregon have cooler climates than California, many of the wines are less ripe, have higher acid and are considered better with food than California wines. Washington State Some of today’s most exciting wines are coming out of Washington State. Robert Parker’s influential Wine Advocate has given Washington’s Quilceda Creek Cabernet Sauvignon wines perfect 100-point scores for their 2002, 2003 and 2005 vintages. At $115 a bottle, this high scorer almost seems like a bargain—at least when compared to Napa Valley’s cult Cabernets, which cost $500+ a bottle!If $115 is still too expensive (and it probably is, in these “shift to thrift” times), you can get exquisite Washington wines for far less money. Januik or Fidelitas Cabernet Sauvignon are about $40-$55 and are both made with grapes that come from the Champoux vineyard—the very same vineyard as Quilceda Creek Cabernet. There are other superb, award-winning Washington State Cabernet Sauvignons and Cabernet- based blends that can be found for half of what you would pay for Napa Valley wines of similar quality. Some of the best are from Kestrel, Chateau Ste. Michelle, Seven Hills, Milbrandt, Waterbrook, Pendulum, Reininger, Pirouette, Chester Kidder, Col Solare and Columbia Crest Winery’s Walter Clore Private Reserve, a salute to the father of the Washington State wine industry. Most of these producers make a variety of wines at different price points, and many also produce marvelous Merlot, a great choice with marinated butterflied lamb.Also look for “second labels” from some top-quality wineries like Helix by Reininger and Novelty Hill from Januik. Still too pricey? In the “value” category, look for Cabernet Sauvignon from Washington Hills and from The Magnificent Wine Company’s “Originals Cab.” Washington Cabernet Sauvignons are opulent wines with classic flavors of plum, chocolate and black cherry. They are knockouts paired with a big Porterhouse steak or a rich prep like braised beef with blue cheese. Washington State is also quite well known for great Syrah (Shiraz), a velvety, spicy red grape. Try brawny yet elegant Syrahs from Columbia Winery, Sequel, OIsen, Saint Laurent or Tsillan with grilled sausage or smoked ribs. And for white wines, look for Riesling, which is becoming Washington’s signature white. Pair Mercer or Snoqualmie’s luscious Rieslings with spicy Pad Thai or lemongrass chicken.OregonAlthough it was California wines that first scored an upset over the French, Oregon wines were not far behind. By the late 1970s, Oregon Pinot Noir was outscoring many French red Burgundies. Since then, Oregon, the “un-California,” has become the home of structured, age-worthy and elegant Pinot Noirs. Not only can these Pinot Noirs go head to head with the great Burgundies, but many of them are organically or sustainably grown. One winery, Owen Roe, makes marvelous wine in both Washington and Oregon, capitalizing on the great grapes in both states. In Oregon, look for Owen Roe’s Pinot Noirs-- Kilmore and Sharecropper’s-- and don’t miss out on marvelous, highly rated Pinot Noir from Antica Terra, Ponzi, Erath, Stoller, Dusky Goose, Cardwell Hill, Cooper Mountain, Coeur de Terre, Johan, Misty Oaks and Et Fille. Keep in mind that most producers of Oregon Pinot Noir are very small – most producing 175 to 1,000 cases--and the wines rarely make it out of Oregon, let alone to big-box retailers, so get on the mailing lists for these handcrafted wines. Pinot Noir, with its cherry and baking spice flavors, is one of the world’s most food- friendly wines. Of course, the classic pairings are Pinot Noir with salmon or mushrooms, but you should also try Oregon Pinot Noir with pork loin and cherries, stir fried beef, Vietnamese ph? or roasted guinea hen-- all food and wine matches made in heaven.New York State New York has two very different wine growing areas. One is the North Fork of Long Island, about 90 miles east of New York City, and the other is the Finger Lakes, about 350 miles north of New York City.The North Fork is New York’s newest wine region, producing excellent Cabernet Franc and Merlot. Cabernet Franc has long been the region’s signature red grape, and the North Fork has gotten it right. The best Cab Francs come from Jamesport, Martha Clara and Macari. Try a Cab Franc with eggplant Parmigiano for a vegetarian delight. For Merlot and Merlot- based blends, Macari, Raphael and Jamesport and a newcomer, Bouké, are tops. Sauvignon Blanc is becoming the region’s “great white,” and just about any North Fork producer makes outstanding Sauv Blanc. Try one with a goat cheese soufflé.The Finger Lakes region of New York, with a colder climate than Long Island, makes some of the best Riesling outside of Germany. Both the off- dry, food- friendly Rieslings and the dessert ice wines are world-class medal winners. Back in the 1950s, the Finger Lakes region produced only American grape varieties that were used for grape juice or jelly, and no one thought that the region could produce great wine. Today, there are over 100 wineries, most of which craft great Riesling and Gewurztraminer. Finger Lakes wineries also produce wine from grapes which are hybrids of old and New world varietals, including floral, perfumed Seyval Blanc and Vignoles from Hunt Country and Traminette and Vergennes from Arbor Hill.New York Rieslings have lower alcohol than Rieslings from California, which makes them ideal food wines. Pair Dr. Frank’s Riesling with baked ham, Wagner’s Semi-Dry Riesling with choucroute and Fox Run’s Riesling with smoked salmon. Also coming on strong from the Finger Lakes Regions is Pinot Noir. The best examples come from Lamoreaux Landing, Keuka Springs and Lakewood Vineyards. This should be no surprise, because the Finger Lakes wine region is on a similar latitude as Oregon, America’s premier producer of Pinot Noir.Of course, the ice wines from the Finger Lakes are superb. Try bread pudding or flan with Heron Hills’ Late Harvest Vidal Blanc. And, you don’t need dessert with Wagner Vignoles Ice Wine or Hunt Country’s Vidal Blanc Ice wine, they are dessert! For a most unusual treat, try Sheldrake Point’s Cabernet Franc ice wine.MichiganMost people think about cars, not wine, when thinking about Michigan. But Michigan ranks in the top 10 states nationwide for wine grape production. In 1974, the state’s first winery, Grand Traverse, started producing Riesling. Today there are about 65 Michigan wineries, many of them award-winning.Like New York’s Finger Lakes wine region, the traditional wines of Michigan were often made from North American grape varieties or from hybrids. Today, Riesling rules at Peninsula Cellars, where their 8.5% alcohol Riesling has only about half the alcohol content of California’s white wines. This is a great choice for warm weather barbecues, when you can knock back a glass or two without getting too “happy happy.” Most Michigan Rieslings don’t have more than 11% alcohol, so try one from Forty-Five North, St. Julien, Bowers, Brys, Black Star or Chantal with barbecued chicken or spicy spring rolls.With great wines being made all over America, my professional advice is, “kiss French, drink American!”Copyright 2009 Talcott Communications. Reprinted with permission. All rights reserved.
