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From Oregon To Your Table

by Keith Miller

Oregon is like the middle child—on the map it’s between California and Washington, at your local wine shop it’s between the same two places, and yes, on the wine list at your favorite restaurant it will typically be that middle child AGAIN! Pay attention to the middle child this time.The top five varietals from this region—which many people forget—are Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris, Riesling, and the one Oregon is famous for—Pinot Noir. When you look at the section dedicated to Oregon in your store or on a restaurant wine list many of you may not recognize the winery names. What do you see are varietals such as “Riesling” or “Pinot Noir,” neither of which you think you like. Many people say they don’t like Pinot Noir from Oregon because it isn’t fruity enough, but a great pinot should not be fruity. Likewise, Riesling is avoided because it’s too sweet, when in reality, a good Riesling is often not sweet at all.Invest some time in learning about Oregon winesSo when it comes to buying a wine from Oregon how do you figure out what’s what and what you’ll like? In this case you may have to hit the books a bit and rely on information from people on the front lines—the wineries and wine writers actually in Oregon. Many retail and restaurant employees are not well versed on Oregon wines because of limited opportunities to taste and be educated about them. Two excellent resources are www.oregonwine.org and www.oregonwines.com. When it comes to Oregon wines it’s well worth it to spend some time up front educating yourself about them. You don’t want to plunk down your hard-earned dollars for something you may not like and, in this case, you may end up being your own best resource on finding wines to suit your tastes and budget.A word about consuming wineIt is my opinion in general—particularly when it comes to Oregon wines and especially Pinot Noir—that wine is meant to be consumed with food. Sure, many people like to have wine as an aperitif, but to get the most from a glass of good wine you have to have a bit of food in your mouth. Looking for fruit from your Pinot? It’s there, the trick is having food with it. Food brings out the fruit in wine, and it doesn’t have to be a perfect match. No matter what anyone says, you are in control and what you like is really all that matters.The varietals in more detailLet’s talk about Oregon Pinot Noir first. A good way to start the conversation is to mention a place named Burgundy, France. Pinot Noir from Oregon tends to be very similar to Pinot Noir from Burgundy. Pinot Noir (the locomotive that drives the Oregon wine train) is one of the most complex of all the grapes and Oregon relies on it in a big way. Oregon produces wines from this varietal that span the full spectrum between red and black fruit—frequently accented by a full range of spices. You will love these wines. The body will be full and rich but not heavy, with a ton of flavor but still elegant. Did we mention they should be consumed with food?Pinot Gris (called Pinot Grigio when grown in Italy) is typically very fragrant, a bit floral and often has some wonderful citrus flavors. As with any varietal, its characteristics will vary depending on harvest and vinification, but Pinot Gris characteristically tangy, light, quite rich, round and full bodied. Heck, they can even age, but folks like to open and consume the vino. The wineries love it this way, too.Riesling, yes, the one many just won’t buy or consume because it’s too sweet. You are missing out! Many Rieslings have a distinctive floral and apple-like aroma that frequently mixes in a mineral aspect from its vineyard source—rocks and stuff. The high level of tartaric acids in Riesling allow the wines to be paired with food in a way that will surprise most doubters. You know those lemony chicken dishes you make and all that spicy stir fry you love mixing up in your kitchen? Oregon Riesling is your ticket to happiness!Wow, here is a varietal for you—Gewürztraminer. What? Just say “Gavurtz” it is easier. From light in color to a dark golden yellow, Gewürztraminer can be quite full bodied, more so than almost any other white wine type—in a good way. The weight of the wine is good (think about the weight of many California Chardonnays), and it is excellent paired with smoked salmon, wild game dishes and Munster cheese.Oregon Chardonnay, unlike its California sister, is one you will see a only smattering of in stores and restaurants. This varietal from Oregon will tend to be not as “fat” as those from farther south. Oregon Chardonnay will show more floral and citrus notes. Want an elegant Chardonnay? Buy one from Oregon!Down in the dirtOK. Let’s talk about the dirt. It’s where the vines grow and the grapes hang out. OregonWine.org says it nicely: “When it comes to wine, place matters. Wine grapes have an amazing ability to draw flavors and attributes from the place in which its vines grow. Put your nose in one glass of red wine and you might get flavors of black cherry and anis. Taste the same variety from a different vineyard and you could get subtle hints of pine and spice.”One of the beauties of wine is that it serves as canvas for what the French call “terroir,” and what Oregon winemakers have interpreted as their “sense of place.” The amazing adaptability of a simple grape can mirror such complex qualities as soil types, climate and topography, and bring the essence of these qualities to the wine. There are many different interpretations of “place” in Oregon, which is one of the most diverse geo-climates in the world. Its widely varied geology has created diverse soil types well suited for growing high-quality grapes. As a result, the region successfully supports both cool- and warm-climate varietals.Now you’re readyThis is the type of information that will help you make informed purchases when you are buying wine from any region. Oregon wines show a sense of place unlike any other region in our country. They are in some ways underappreciated and undiscovered but, if you know what you are looking for you can find those that will are on a par with some of the best French Burgundies Bottom line, most people’s preconceived ideas rule out some of the best wines Oregon has to offer. Chances are you’d like them—you just need a little more information. So get informed, gain some knowledge, and when you’ve done that—go buy some Oregon wine!Recommended wines: Ok we are not placing vintages besides the names. Trust the Vineyard and the names of….Some Oregon Wine labels to look for (could I recommend better wines? sure but you cannot find them in the stores you shop at… Ask your retailer for other Oregon Wines and what they recommend… Trust them some). Names to look for Adelsheim WinesArgyle WinesChehalem WinesElk Cove WinesWillamette Valley Vineyards WinesWhere to buy Wine…(just suggestions) DiVino, Heritage Wine and Liquor, Mondo Vino and The Vineyard Wine Shop


About the Author

Keith Miller - Keith Miller (host), 29 years of experience in the wine industry. He is co-owner of Mile High Wine and Spirits in Belmar www.milehighwineandspirits.com and CEO of The Vineyard Wine Shop in Cherry Creek, www.vineyardwineshop.com . “Knowledge is power” is one of Keith Millers guiding principles. WineguysTV.com (sister station) was started because he felt there was a need for clear insights and a no-nonsense approach to informing, educating and appreciating wines.

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