When most wine aficionados visit Germany to meet their favorite producers, they often find themselves knocking at a rustic looking door, with the winemaker/owner or his wife jumping up from the lunch table to welcome the visitor inside.
Things are a bit different at Kendermann, which bills itself as the number one “new generation” wine brand, reaching annual sales of 250,000 cases. Instead of a quaint farmhouse, Kendermann is headquartered in a large, modern-looking building with busy-looking, sharply dressed executives rushing about and the fragrance of fresh brewed espresso in the air. You sense a vibrating energy in the air that is almost palpable – these executives are on a mission. And you can see evidence of it when you learn that in ten years, Kendermann has won more national and international awards than any other German wine brand and according to Nielson, a respected company that measures such things, is one of the fastest growing wine brands in the UK.
Successful wine sales takes more than good quality wine, or simply savvy marketing. Kendermann has both, and has found success by creating quality, branded products at a variety of price points, and tailoring that specific brand toward a specific consumer profile. Kendermann’s Black Tower, Germany’s most widely exported brand, attracts a cult following among younger consumers. The wines sell for under $10, and according to Kendermann executives, the reason it sells so well include:
* Excellent wine quality
* Distinctive black bottle with a unique shape
* Innovative, integrated PR and marketing campaigns
* Extensive distribution network around the world
Tasting Black Tower side by side with the higher quality brands I noticed that the difference between them was indeed quite subtle. The Black Tower wines seemed younger, less nuanced, as well as bolder and more assertive than their more expensive siblings. According to winemaker Philipp Maurer, Kendermann strictly monitors their contract growers and visits often to ensure a quality harvest. Varietals include Rivaner (white), Riesling, Dornfelder (red), Pinot Noir, Pinot Grigio, Rose, and Merlot. Of all the wines in the Black Tower family, I really enjoyed the Pinot Noir and Rose the most. The rose in particular was delicious, with a refreshing amount of tannin and rich, ripe fruit.
We tasted the premium quality brands as well, and here, it was very easy to taste the high mineral content of many of the soils used for production of premium wine, as well as the older age of the vines and care in viticulture and vinification. The Kendermann Leiwener Laurentiuslay Riesling Beerenauslese 2005 was outstanding, and it was easy to see how it won the coveted Gold Medal at the San Francisco International Wine Competition in 2007. As is most quality Beerenauslese, it was made from the ripest grapes from Reh Kendermann’s own vineyards in the Mosel. Aromas include exotic yellow fruit and intense, dried raisins – quite lively despite the high sugar content.
Between Black Tower and the “icon” single vineyard Beerenauslese and TrockenBeerenauslese (even richer, sweeter, and botrytized) is the aspirational lifestyle brand Bend in the River along with other brands (traditional, classic, organic, and my personal favorite, Kendermann Terroir, which is differentiated from the other brands by its very pronounced aroma and taste of the intense mineral soil in which it was grown. Finally, a key factor that makes Kendermann’s a role model for other large wineries is its “green” factor.
* Low reliance on fossil and other fuels
* All raw materials used in the winery are recycled or environmental friendly
* Labels are made of cellulose paper from sustainable forestry
* Most cartons are made of 100% recycled paper
The corporate name of Kendermann is “Reh-Kendermann”, reflecting the name of its owners, Carl and Andrea Reh. The Rehs were not there during my visit but I was completely charmed by winemaker Philipp Maurer (his colleague Christine Pröstler was elsewhere). Young, wildly enthusiastic, engaging, and quite fluent in English, Phillipp’s passion for wine really shows. Next time I open a bottle I will think of his enthusiasm for all the Kendermann’s brands with every sip.
Reh-Kendermann Weinkellerei
Contact: Volkmar Stöckmann
Am Ockenheimer Graben 35, 55411 Bingen
Phone: +49 (0) 6721-9010, Fax: +49 (0) 6721-901240
info@reh-kendermann.de, volkmar.stoeckmann@reh-kendermann.de
