There's a saying,' When in Rome, do as the Romans do. 'Well, shift your mood, and put yourself mentally, somewhere in the Mediterranean. One good way to 'do as they do' would be to enjoy aperitifs based on anise. In France, having a pastis or Pernod is a fairly typical drink. Mezes in Greece wouldn't seem right if it weren't for the ouzo to wash the food down. In Spain, anise based drinks are known as ojena, and in Italy, anesone.
Pernod has been around since the late 1700's, although it was first marketed as an extract of absinthe, with the addition of green anise, fennel and hyssop. these herbs all have an aroma and flavour similar to anise. Banned in 1915 and reintroduced in 1920, Absinthe/Pernod has defined French culture around the world, through famous writers and artists from the turn of the century, in all their complex squalor and glory.
The other world famous product is Ricard. Charles Salvas, Brand Manager for Ricard in Canada, explains that "pastis differs from Pernod in that it comes from a maceration of liquorice powder in a mixture of aniseed extract, water, alcohol and sugar. Pernod owes its flavour and subtle bouquet to the distillation of plants." In effect, pastis has a dominant liquorice flavour, yet with Pernod, the opposite is true. Star Anise from Asia is the dominant performer here.
Along with this world dominant duo, there are other brands to choose from which don't get as much exposure. Two products to watch out for are the Henri Bardouin Pastis, from Provence and the Pastis des Terres Rouges. The Terres Rouges is made from a turn-of-the-century recipe, using a minimum amount of sugar required for a pastis. The concentrated flavour impacts in a layered, persistent fashion. It is highly recommended in the kitchen, especially with seafood or splashed into a rustic tomato sauce. The Henri Bardouin puts me right on the French Riviera!
Lets not forget ouzo, with its degrees of dry to sweetish herbal qualities as a backbone to the anise. One of the best areas for production is the island of Lesvos, where Ouzo Ploumari has been made since 1894. Aniseed from Lisvori is considered the best in the world. Achaia Clauss Ouzo and Ouzo 12 are other classic brands to try. Ouzo is clear, but like Pernod and Ricard, clouds up to an opaque, milky liquid, with the requisite addition of water. It stands up to the vibrant, herbaceous flavours of the Greek Mediterranean.
The common factor in Pernod, pastis or ouzo is the mixture of aniseed and liquorice along with the other aromatic herbs. The country of origin will differ, with indigenous herbs and methods of production. The only thing that doesn't change is that wonderful moment when the water hits and the spirit clouds up. Make your own ritual, by all means, but let these spirits wake up your senses!
