I abhor large events with hundreds, sometimes thousands, of food and wine enthusiasts fighting each other for a sip or snack. Sometimes, you actually can say hello to the chef or winemaker, but nothing more. How lucky I was to share lunch at National (50th & Lexington in the Hotel Benjamin) with Pat Henderson, Senior Chief Winemaker at Kenwood Vineyards (Sonoma County). Pernod Ricard bought them in 2014 and our hostess with the mostest Nora Feeley, VP at Hill + Knowlton Strategies, invited me for lunch. I have not seen Nora since her days at Constellation Brands. It is so refreshing to talk to a PR person that actually knows the wine business. Two of the best wine writers in the New York area joined us- Bill Marsano & Mort Hockstein. Between the three of us there were 250 years of experience represented. I know the National is a “hip” restaurant but the noise level was so loud that we had difficulty hearing what the five people at our table were saying to each other. We tasted the following wines: Sonoma County Sauvignon Blanc 2014- $12.99 (great value); Sonoma County Pinot Noir 2013- $18.99; Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon 2012- $18.99 great value); Jack London Merlot 2013- $21.99; Six Ridges Russian River Valley Chardonnay 2014- $21.99; Single Vineyard Sonoma County Zinfandel 2013- $31.99; Single Vineyard Carriger Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon 2012- $42.Founded in 1970, Kenwood has been making wine for 46 vintages in a winery that dates back to 1906. They were one of a handful of wineries that started premium Sonoma winemaking in the 1970s, a time when the great rebirth of premium Californian wine took place. Pat was 19 years old when he started making wine, and between him and one of his winemakers, Mark Stupich, they have more than 75 years of wine making experience. Six Ridges: Each wine is made from fruit sourced from the Sonoma County appellation that best expresses that varietal. The name is inspired by the mountains and ridges that guide the cooling influence of the nearby Pacific Ocean and help to form each appellation’s unique terroir.Single Vineyard: They showcase the unique and complex flavors of their best vineyard sites. Available only at the tasting room, these low production (120 case) lots are made from individual vineyards selected by Pat for their exceptional quality. Sonoma Series: The perfect introduction to Sonoma County wines, capturing the unique character of Sonoma’s signature varietals. Made with the same small-lot method that they use for their more premium lines, these wines are known for their true varietal expression. Jack London: This iconic single-vineyard wine is grown at the author’s old estate located on the steep slopes of Sonoma Mountain. One of California’s oldest and most successful vineyard-designated wines. The vineyard is perfectly suited to growing red varieties. Kenwood has been sourcing exclusively from the Jack London ranch since 1976, and 2015 marked their 40th vintage. Jack London was a pioneer of sustainable farming in Sonoma over 100 years ago and today the estate continues to be sustainably farmed by the same family.Artist Series: A true work of art and the ultimate expression of Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon. Beginning with the 1975 vintage, this wine is one of California’s best-known, super premium Cabernet Sauvignons. A blend made from small lots from their best Sonoma County Cabernet vineyards. Pat talked about things that are integral to Kenwood “today”. With the backing of Pernod Ricard Winemakers, they can now focus on what they love most – making great Sonoma County wines. They invested in vineyards in a big way as part of the acquisition, purchasing the best five vineyards in their portfolio. Located in the Sonoma, Dry Creek & Russian River Valleys they total more than 250 acres and are the backbone of their premium wine program. Furthermore, the ranches are being improved by replanting with low-yielding clones selected for flavor rather than production. They are in the middle of the biggest capital improvement plan in their history, building a fermentation building and relocating their grape receiving area to the top of the winery for gentler, gravity-flow processing. In the cellar, they have acquired a new state of the art cross flow filter and centrifuge, both designed to ready the wine for bottle with a minimum impact on taste. They have increased the budget for premium tight-grained French oak for use in the Six Ridges, Jack London and Artist Series lines. Pat believes small-lot winemaking is the best way to get the most out of the unique flavors that each of their Sonoma County vineyards produce.Welcome to the world of fine winemaking Pat. You are a star.www.kenwoodvineyards.comwww.pernod-ricard.com
