Think of Cava sparkling wine, and chances are the familiar brown and gold label of Segura Viudas comes to mind. Few people realize that this popular wine is actually named after the man who founded it in the 1950s. Mr. Viudas was a grower who made sparkling wine – Cava - and sold it to others to bottle under their own name. People craved this delicious Cava, and eventually Mr. Viudas realized that he should be bottling the wine himself under his own brand.It is a sunny Fall day and I am so excited to be here, in Sant Sadurni d’Anoia (the key center for Cava production), at the peak of harvest. Every fifteen seconds, giant trucks swoosh through the enormous, beautifully landscaped driveway of the Segura Viudas winery with their cargo of neatly packed containers of perfectly ripe green grapes. It is a very pretty scene, and poets through the centuries must come up with beautiful prose to describe the rolling green hills and charming historic buildings with their Roman archways that make up the Segura Viudas headquarters.In Spain, Cava production is less a “region” than a production area that is spread through 160 municipalities that also include the Basque country, Navarra, La Rioja, Aragon, Valencia, and Extremadura. What makes this Penedes region the prime region for Cava production is the soil and climate.The PenedesVineyard Manager Sebastia Raventos Pascual meets me in the vineyard and tells me a bit about the area, explaining that the Penedes is actually divided into three regions. The lower Penedes is close to the coast, has a hot climate, and the soil is both limestone and clay. Xarel-lo, one of the key grape varieties, is grown here. The middle Penedes (150 – 300 meters above sea level) stretches along the central hills and is cooler than the coastal climate. Here the soil is limestone and chalk, and is the best region for Macabeo. The upper Penedes (250 – 600 meters above sea level) is the highest and most humid region, and the soil is very chalky. This is the best region for Parellada. Like champagne, each of the grapes give the wine a different characteristic. Macabeo adds acidity and finesse, Xarel-lo adds body and structure, as well as alcohol. And Parallada produces a low alcohol wine that also adds aroma. Rootstocks, Soil, and GrapesFreixenet, the best-selling, family-owned Cava company, owns the Segura Viudas brand as well. The grapes for all the Freixenet brands are sourced from their own vineyards, as well as 1200 contracted growers. Mr. Pascual tells me that before buying a vineyard, a detailed soil analysis is performed. He shows me PowerPoint slides and charts that illustrate the extensive research that goes into effort. First, the plot must have the nutritional requirements necessary for the grapes. Once this is satisfied and the plot is purchased, the next step is to pinpoint the best rootstock to plant on the vineyard. The choice of Rootstock is important, as depending on the plot, it may be necessary to choose a rootstock that resists phylloxera or rain. Finally, Mr. Pascual and his team must decide on the grape varietal that is best matched to both the soil and rootstock. Dangers in the VineyardMr. Pascual and his team must be alert for potential dangers in the vineyard, such as rot or odium. One way to avert rot is by training the vines on trellis instead of the traditional “bush training” method, as it allows the wind to reach and dry the grapes after a heavy rain and avoid rot. The team must also watch out for odium, mildew, botrytis, and the grape moth, which is controlled by “sexual confusion.” Mr. Pascual uses pheromones to confuse the male moth when it seeks a mate via the use of sprayers hidden in the vines. By all accounts, the method is working very well. In addition to global warming, rainfall has also increased over the past several years. The main challenge is that it’s not just the amount of rain that falls, but also the force and intensity of the rain which can flood a vineyard and create erosion. For example, a forceful rain can wash the soil and nutrients from the top of the slope to the bottom. To correct this problem, Mr. Pascual has his team dig trenches in the vineyard to channel the water safely to the sides of the vineyard, and also plant filler crop between the rows to divert the rush of water safely away. Grape Reception After the vineyard tour, we walk to the trucks lining up at the grape reception area. The grapes look round and plump and perfectly healthy, and I discover it is a result of the excellent care. Unlike other cava producers, Friexenet’s contractors are required to hand pick and use shallow 25 kg plastic crates to avoid crushing and thus, oxidation.At the reception area, a robotic arm takes a sample of grapes from random boxes of each producer to determine quality. The juice from each truck’s sampling is collected by a worker, who brings it into the adjacent station for 17 points of analysis. The collected juice is tested for sugar, various acidity, PH, and more and the results are instantly printed out by a computer. The grower is paid according to how well his or her grapes scored.Outside by the truck I analyze a grape the old-fashioned way, taking a ripe specimen from a perfectly healthy bunch and popping it into my mouth. It is very ripe and delicious. Given the terms of their contract, the growers are highly motivated to produce the healthiest way possible. Pressing the GrapesAfter reception, the grapes are mechanically loaded into a giant hopper, which leads down to a lower level where one finds the pneumatic presses that can hold the equivalent of 25,000 bottles. The grapes are very gently pressed twice, with the first pressing going into one tank, and the second into another. The process takes four to five hours and makes the equivalent of 25,000 bottles of wine.Quality Can Be Tasted in the GlassAfter several hours of watching giant trucks, hoppers, and pneumatic presses turn healthy green grapes into what will soon become a base wine and then fine Cava, it’s very clear to see that quality wine is truly made in the vineyard. Tasting through the Segura Viudas line I was impressed by the wines at each price point, from the well-balanced cavas to the pretty rose colored wines to the Reserva Heredad, a limited production Cava originally reserved for members of the Segura family and their friends.Leaving the winery, I was surprised to discover my thoughts were focused on Mr. Segura, and how brave he was to take that important move of realizing that his name belonged on his own bottles of Cava, and that he was selling himself short by letting others take credit for all his efforts. It felt good to see that Freixenet, the brand’s new owner, was keeping Mr. Segura’s memory alive.
