Pinot Noir, both as a grape and as a style of wine, is very difficult to get right -- and yet that hasn't stopped it from becoming enormously popular in the last few decades. But how can you discern which bottles to skip and which to snatch up? In a Book Ends first, we look at a single grape and taste through how different winemaking styles affect what ends up in your glass -- and how to pick out the good bottles among the masses of awful ones.